Pattern Engineering Assessment of Styling and Fitting Issues in Men’s Blazer Making

Thippeswamy. C; Dr. Jayashree Venkatesh

doi:10.5281/zenodo.23037948

Volume 15, Issue 09 (September 2026)

Pattern Engineering Assessment of Styling and Fitting Issues in Men’s Blazer Making

DOI : 10.5281/zenodo.23037948

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Authors : Thippeswamy. C, Dr. Jayashree Venkatesh
Paper ID : IJERTV15IS090758
Volume & Issue : Volume 15, Issue 09 , September – 2026
Published (First Online): 29-09-2026
ISSN (Online) : 2278-0181
Publisher Name : IJERT
License: This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License

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Pattern Engineering Assessment of Styling and Fitting Issues in Mens Blazer Making

Thippeswamy C.(1)*

(1) Research Scholar, Department of Apparel Technology and Management, Bangalore University, Bengaluru560001, India & Associate Professor, Fashion Design Department, NIFT Bengaluru

Dr. Jayashree Venkatesh (2)

(2) Associate Professor, Department of Apparel Technology and Management, Bangalore University, Bengaluru560001, India;

ABSTRACT

Achieving appropriate styling and fitting in mens blazer making requires consideration of body size, shape, contours and pattern engineering. However, styling and fitting issues observed during blazer trials may be associated with different stages of the blazer-making process and require systematic technical assessment. This study aimed to identify styling and fitting issues in mens blazers across four segments: Made-to-Order/Bespoke (MTO/Bespoke), Custom Tailoring (CT), Made-to-Measure (MTM) and Ready-to-Wear (RTW), trace their probable originating processes, assess associated technical factors and establish appropriate remedial measures. An observational diagnostic approach was adopted based on visual trial assessments by expert fit technicians. Assessments for MTO/Bespoke, CT and MTM were conducted on live bodies, whereas RTW blazers were assessed primarily on dress forms. The observed issues were documented using industry- recognised terminology and consolidated into 20 distinct styling and fitting issues. Each issue was subsequently traced to its probable originating process within the nine-process blazer-making framework comprising Measuring, Materials, Drafting, Laying, Marking, Cutting, Sewing, Trial/Reviewing, and Re-sewing & Finishing. The associated technical factors and remedial measures were established through technical assessment of the observed garment manifestations. Process-level analysis indicated that Drafting (C3) was associated with all 20 identified issues, while other processes were identified as contributing processes where applicable. The study establishes a structured basis for relating observed styling and fitting manifestations to their probable process origins, technical factors and corrective requirements. The findings provide practical reference for pattern masters, coat makers, tailors and fit technicians in assessing and addressing styling and fitting issues in mens blazer making.

Keywords: Pattern Engineering; Blazer Making; Styling; Fitting; Technical Assessment

INTRODUCTION

Fit requires particular attention in individually tailored garments because variations in body dimensions, proportions and wearer preferences influence garment dimensions, ease and appearance. In traditional custom tailoring, fitting and pattern correction form an integral part of garment development, allowing adjustments to reflect individual wearer requirements and achieve satisfactory fit (Kim et al., 2019).

Fit is a key outcome attribute of apparel design and concerns the relationship between the three- dimensional human body and the garment. In structured mens suit jackets and blazers, achieving the desired fit and style requires consideration of body size, body shape, garment dimensions, ease and silhouette (Kang & Choi, 2004; Kim et al., 2019; Opoku et al., 2023). Previous studies have identified body measurements and garment areas such as the collar, lapel, shoulders, sleeves and jacket length as important considerations in achieving satisfactory fit in mens jackets (Opoku et al., 2023). Research on mens jackets has also reported body-fit and movement-related problems, demonstrating the need to accommodate both body characteristics and movement requirements in achieving satisfactory blazer fit (Boday Saygl & Çivitci, 2015).

Blazer style and fit are closely associated with pattern engineering, through which garment dimensions, proportions, component relationships and design features are established. Variations in body characteristics and body types have been reported to influence jacket fit, pattern development and sizing requirements (Kwon & Lee, 2023; Size Korea, 2021). Studies have further examined body-type-focused jacket development and fit, indicating that standardised specifications may not adequately accommodate differences in body characteristics (Shin & Suh, 2019; Shin & Suh, 2025). In addition, differences in jacket ease according to pattern-drafting methods and fit preferences across suit styles have been reported (Park & Lee, 2013; Kim & Suh, 2011). These findings indicate that pattern engineering is an important consideration in achieving appropriate style and fit in blazers.

In practical blazer making, styling and fitting issues are manifested through specific garment features and may be associated with pattern-engineering methods, techniques, principles and manipulation procedures, as well as with other processes involved in blazer making. Such manifestations include collar and back-neck irregularities, shoulder imbalance, chest and waist creasing, sleeve pitch and length discrepancies, back bunching and jacket-length irregularities, which can affect the overall fit, form and fall of the blazer. Although existing studies have addressed body variation, jacket fit, ease and pattern development, comparative documentation linking observed styling and fitting issues to their probable originating processes, associated technical factors and appropriate remedial measures across MTO/Bespoke, Custom Tailoring (CT), Made-to-Measure (MTM) and Ready-to-Wear (RTW) blazer-making systems remains limited. Therefore, the present study aims to identify styling and fitting issues in mens blazers across these four blazer-making systems, trace their probable originating processes, assess associated technical factors, and establish appropriate remedial measures
LITERATURE REVIEW
Existing studies have examined garment fit, body shape and size, pattern development, jacket dimensions and specific fitting problems in mens jackets and related garments. However, these studies generally address individual aspects of fit or particular technical problems rather than examining styling and fitting issues across different blazer-making systems. In particular, limited literature systematically compares MTO/Bespoke, Custom Tailoring (CT), Made-to- Measure (MTM) and Ready-to-Wear (RTW) with respect to the styling and fitting issues observed in finished blazers.

Further, limited practical literature establishes a systematic link between an observed styling or fitting issue, its probable originating blazer-making process, associated technical factor and corresponding remedial measure. The present study addresses this gap by examining styling and fitting issues across the four blazer-making systems and tracing each observed issue within a common nine-process framework: C1 Measuring, C2 Materials, C3 Drafting, C4 Laying, C5 Marking, C6 Cutting, C7 Sewing, C8 Trial/Reviewing and C9 Re-sewing & Finishing.
METHODOLOGY
Appropriate remedial measures were established for each styling and fitting issue based on the identified technical factors. The corrective measures were considered in relation to the technical requirements of the probable originating process and the nature of the observed garment manifestation. Where more than one process or technical factor was involved, the corresponding remedial measures were documented for each relevant factor
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
The visually observed styling and fitting issues were traced to their probable originating processes within the C1C9 blazer-making framework, comprising C1 Measuring, C2 Materials, C3 Drafting, C4 Laying, C5 Marking, C6 Cutting, C7 Sewing, C8 Trial/ Reviewing, and C9 Re-sewing & Finishing. Each issue was related to the process or processes considered technically relevant to its observed manifestation. Where an issue involved more than one process, the relevant process associations were recorded. The tracing focused on the probable originating process rather than the stage of observation, with the resulting associations for the 20 identified issues presented in Table 4.2.

The process-level distribution of these associations is graphically represented in Figure 4.1, showing Drafting (C3) as the most frequently associated process, followed by Measuring (C1), Materials (C2), and Sewing (C7). The remaining processes were not associated with the identified issues based on the recorded observations. These findings establish the process- level basis for the subsequent technical assessment and remedial measures.

Table 4.2. Probable Originating Processes of the Identified Styling and Fitting Issues

No. Styling and Fitting Issue Probable Originating C-Process(es)
1. Collar Gap
2. Collar Point Pulling
3. Collar Frame-Off
4. Upper Centre-Back Rippling
5. V-Zone Variation
6. Loose/Hanging Lapel (Gaping Lapel)
7. Lapel Roll-Line Off
  
  C1 Measuring; C3 Drafting C3 Drafting
  
  C3 Drafting; C7 Sewing C3 Drafting
  
  C3 Drafting; C7 Sewing C3 Drafting
  
  C3 Drafting; C2 Materials; C7 Sewing
8. Shoulder Imbalance (Asymmetric Shoulder) C1 Measuring; C3 Drafting; C2 Materials
9. Forward/Outward Shoulder C3 Drafting; C2 Materials
10. Shoulder Max
11. Knocked-Down Shoulder
12. Shoulder Divot
13. Chest Gap
14. X-Button Strain
15. Centre-Back Vent Off
16. Walking Sleeve Off
17. Side Vent Open and Centre-Back Hiking
18. Side Pulling
19. Tight Arm
20. Sleeve Pitch Off
C1 Measuring; C3 Drafting; C2 Materials C3 Drafting; C2 Materials

C1 Measuring; C3 Drafting; C2 Materials C3 Drafting

C3 Drafting

C3 Drafting; C1 Measuring C3 Drafting

C3 Drafting; C1 Measuring C3 Drafting; C1 Measuring C3 Drafting; C1 Measuring C3 Drafting; C1 Measuring

Process-Level Association of Styling and Fitting Issues

25

20

15

10

5 100%

45%

30%

15%

0%

0%

0%

0%

0%

0

-5

C3

Drafting

C1

Measurin Materials

C2

C7 C4 C5 C6

Sewing Laying Marking Cutting

Issues associated 20

Percentage 100%

g

9

45%

6

30%

3

15%

0

0%

Axis Title

0

0%

C8 C9 Re-

Trial/Revi sewing & ewing Finishing

0 0 0

0% 0% 0%

Axis Title

Figure 4.1. Process-Level Association of Styling and Fitting Issues.

The process-level distribution shows that Drafting (C3) was associated with all 20 identified styling and fitting issues (100%), followed by Measuring (C1) at 45%, Materials (C2) at 30%, and Sewing (C7) at 15%. No associations were recorded for C4, C5, C6, C8 or C9.
1. Collar Gap
  
  Description
  
  A visible gap was observed between the blazer collar and shirt collar, with the blazer collar pulling away from the neck when standing upright, as shown in Figure 1(a)
  
  Technical Factor
  
  -Excess Centre Back Length (CBL)
  
  -Excess Back-Neck Width (BNW)
  
  -Excessive slope and imbalanced back panel
  
  -Remedial Measure
  
  -Shorten Centre Back Length (CBL)
  
  -Shorten Back Body Length (BBL)
  
  -Reduce Shoulder Slope as shown in Fig. 1b.
  
  -Retain back-neck drop
  
  -Reduce back-neck width as shown in fig.1b
  
  Fig,1b. Remedial Pattern Correction
  
  Fig,1a. Observed Collar Gap
2. Collar Point Pulling
  
  Description
  
  The front tips of the blazer collar were observed to curl upward, twist or pull tautly away from the blazer body instead of lying flat in their intended position, as shown in Figure 2(a).
  
  Technical Factor
  
  -Excessive gorge line depth.
  
  Remedial Measure
  
  -Shorten the gorge line depth by reducing the front neck drop.
  
  -Reduce the notch depth, as shown in Fig. 2b.
  
  Fig,2a. Observed Collar point Pulling
  
  Fig. 2b. Remedial pattern correction.
3. Collar Frame-Off
  
  Description
  
  The outer edge of the collar pulls backward, causing an irregular fall and roll, as shown in Fig.3a.
  
  Technical Factor
  
  -Insufficient saturation of the collar leaf edge causes the collar to pull backward.
  
  Remedial Measure
  
  -Increase the collar leaf-edge saturation to provide sufficient length and allow the collar to fall and roll correctly, as shown in Fig. 3b.
  
  Fig. 3a. Observed collar frame-off.
  
  Fig. 3b. Remedial pattern correction.
4. Upper Centre-Back Rippling Description
  
  Ripples were observed across the upper centre back below the collar, radiating from the centre-back seam towards the shoulder-blade area, as shown in Figure 4(a).
  
  Technical Factor
  
  -Incorrect back balance due to excessive BBL and CBL.
  
  -Excessive suppression from the nape to the waist.
  
  Remedial Measure
  
  -Shorten the Centre-Back Length (CBL).
  
  -Shorten the Back Body Length (BBL).
  
  -Smooth the back-neck curve.
  
  -Release width across the back, as shown in Fig. 4b.
  
  Fig. 4b. Remedial pattern correction.
  
  Fig. 4a. Observed upper centre-back rippling.
5. V-Zone Variation Description
  
  A narrow and shallow V-zone causes the chest and lapel to hoop upward, as shown in Fig. 5a. Technical Factor
  - A higher buttoning point and inappropriate lapel configuration alter the V-zone and cause the chest and lapel to lift.
    
    Remedial Measure
  - Reduce the neck width.
  - Gradually reshape the lapel leaf edge.
  - Lower the button stance, as shown in Fig. 5b.
    
    Fig. 5a. Observed V-zone variation
    
    Fig. 5b. Remedial pattern correction.
6. Loose /Hanging Lapel (Gaping Lapel) Description
  
  The blazer lapels were observed to bow outward, pull away from the body, or buckle instead of lying cleanly and flat against the chest, as shown in Figure 6(a).
  
  Technical Factor
  
  -Imbalanced shoulder forward stance
  
  Remedial Measure
  
  -Decrease the shoulder slope at the front shoulder ridge and increase the shoulder slope at the back shoulder ridge to restore shoulder balance and allow the lapel to lie flat, as shown in Fig. 6b.
  
  Fig. 6a. Observed loose lapel.
  
  Fig.6b. Remedial Pattern Correction
7. Lapel roll-line off Description
  
  A major fitting defect where the lapel fails to lie flat and contour smoothly over the wearer’s chest as shown in fig.7a. Technical Factor
  
  -Narrowed neck width and closed lapel break line
  
  Fig.7a. Lapel roll-line off
  
  Remedial Measure
  
  -Widen neck width & shift Lapel break line by retaining same break point and button stance as shown in Fig.7b and front facing should adjust accordingly.
  
  Fig.7b..Remedial Pattern Correction
8. Shoulder Imbalance (Asymmetric shoulder) Description
  
  Lapel pops outward instead of forming a soft, natural
  
  three-dimensional curve as shown in fig.7a.
  
  Technical Factor
  
  –Uneven or Asymmetrical Shoulders (Right shoulder sits lower than the left.)
  
  Remedial Measure
  
  – Lift the right shoulder line of front and back. (reduce shoulder slope)-customize the shoulder pad by increasing its height.as shown in Fig.7b and front facing should adjust accordingly.
  
  Fig,8a. Lapel roll-line off
  
  Fig.8b.Remedial Pattern Correction
9. Forward/Outward Shoulder Description
  
  Observed roping and drag lines appear across the
  
  forward shoulder, as shown in Fig. 9a
  
  Technical Factor
  
  -The front shoulder pulls backward due to shoulder imbalance.
  
  Remedial Measure
  
  – Adjust the shoulder stance backward.
  
  -Remove the required amount from the front shoulder and add the equivalent amount to the back shoulder.
  
  -Slightly reduce the across-front at the armhole pitch, as shown in Fig. 9b.
  
  Fig. 9a. Observed forward shoulder.
  
  Fig. 9b. Remedial pattern correction.
10. Shoulder Max Description
  
  The shoulder extends excessively outward, creating a broad or exaggerated shoulder line and affecting the natural shoulder balance as shown in Fig. 10a.
  
  Technical Factor
  
  -Across Shoulder length is beyond Shoulder ridge/point.
  
  Remedial Measure
  
  -Reduce the across-shoulder length while maintaining the shoulder slope, as shown in Fig. 10b.
  
  Fig. 10a. Observed shoulder max.
  
  Fig. 10b. Remedial pattern correction.
11. Knocked-down shoulder. Description
  
  The shoulder line drops downward excessively from
  
  the neck towards the shoulder point, creating a sloping or collapsed shoulder appearance, as shown in Fig. 11a.
  
  Technical Factor
  
  -Excess fabric around shoulder and mound due to less shoulder slope and inadequate shoulder padding
  
  Fig. 11a. Observed knocked-down shoulder.
  
  Remedial Measure
  - Needed increase the shoulder slope at shoulder point and partially at HPS.
  - Shoulder padding needs to be customized according to the slope, as shown in Fig. 11b.
  Fig. 11b. Remedial pattern correction.
12. Shoulder Divot Description
  
  A shoulder divot is an indentation formed around the upper portion of the sleeve-cap line, resulting in an uneven transition between the sleeve cap line and body armhole.as shown in Fig. 12a.
  
  Technical Factor
  - A mismatch between the sleeve-cap contour and body armhole, with excessive sleeve-cap height relative to armhole depth, creates an uneven sleeve-head transition
    
    Remedial Measure
  - Reshape the rear sleeve-cap line with slight cap ease and balanced notching to achieve a smooth transition between the sleeve and armhole, as shown in Fig. 12b.
    
    Fig. 12a. Observed shoulder divot
    
    Fig. 12b. Remedial pattern correction.
13. Chest Gap
  
  Description
  
  The lapels lift and push outward from the chest instead of lying smoothly against the body, creating a visible gap between the lapel and chest, as shown in Fig. 13a.
  
  Technical Factor
  
  – Insufficient front-panel ease at the chest and excessive waist suppression create outward pulling when buttoned, causing the lapels to open and produce a chest gap.
  
  Fig. 13a. Observed chest gap
  
  Remedial Measure
  
  -Reshape the lapel leaf edge and introduce a small lapel dart to control excess along the roll line.
  
  Increase the chest and waist width along the front edge to relieve tension and allow the lapel to lie smoothly against the chest, as shown in Fig. 13b.
  
  Fig. 13b. Remedial pattern correction.
14. X-Button Strain Description
  
  An X-shaped pattern of deep diagonal tension wrinkles
  
  radiates outward from the button closure when the blazer is fastened, as shown in Fig. 14a.
  
  Technical Factor
  
  -Insufficient front-chest or waist-arc ease causes the fabric to pull at the CF button.
  
  Fig. 14a. Observed X-button strain.
  
  Remedial Measure
  
  – Increase chest and waist-arc ease along the front edge, with partial adjustment at the side seams at par with side front panel shaping, as shown in Fig. 14b.
  
  Fig. 14b. Corresponding pattern correction.
15. Centre-Back Vent Off Description
  
  The centre-back vent pulls apart and remains open at the bottom, even when the wearer stands upright, as shown in Fig. 15a.
  
  Technical Factor
  - Excessive suppression around the waist and hip creates tension along the centre-back vent and side back, forcing the vent to open.
    
    Fig. 15a. Observed centre-back vent opening.
    
    Remedial Measure
    
    -Reduce the waist suppression from below the chest through the waist and hip to the bottom hemline, with partial release at the side back, allowing the centre- back vent to hang and close smoothly, as shown in Fig. 15b.
    
    Fig. 15b. Corresponding pattern correction.
16. Walking Sleeve Off Description
The sleeve hangs straight at the side without natural forward movement, causing restricted sleeve motion and visible twisting, as shown in Fig. 16a.

Technical Factor

-Insufficient elbow articulation and inadequate forward swing at the elbow line cause the sleeve to remain too straight and restrict natural arm movement.

Fig. 16a. Observed walking sleeve off

Remedial Measure

– Introduce controlled elbow articulation by shortening the forearm length relative to the rear sleeve length.

-Use slash-and-close manipulation at the elbow line to redistribute sleeve volume and fine-tune the forward swing, as shown in Fig. 16b.

Fig. 16b. Corresponding pattern correction

18. Side Pulling

Description

The side pulls inward, creating diagonal drag lines extending from the side towards the centre back, as shown in Fig. 18a.

Technical Factor

-Insufficient side-panel width at the back, particularly across the back chest, back waist and back hip arcs.

Fig. 18a. Observed side pulling.

Remedial Measure

– Release the required width at the side panel and remove an equivalent amount from the corresponding side of the back panel.

Reduce the suppression from the back waist towards the bottom hemline to relieve stress and strain and restore a smooth back appearance, as shown in Fig. 18b.

Fig. 18b. Corresponding pattern correction.

17. Side Vent Open and Centre-Back Hiking

Description

The centre-back length hikes upward from the HBL, causing the side vents to swing open and the jacket to ride up over the seat, as shown in Fig. 17a

Technical Factor

-Insufficient centre-back length associated with an erect posture causes upward displacement at the centre back.

Fig. 17a. Observed centre-back hiking and side-vent opening.

Remedial Measure

– Lengthen the centre back through the waistline to provide sufficient back length and sweep, allowing the collar to reach the neck and the jacket hem to cover the seat, with the vents lying smoothly, as shown in Fig. 17b.

Fig. 17b. Corresponding pattern correction.

Tight Arm

Description

Diagonal drag lines form around the upper arm and pull towards the underarm, as shown in Fig. 19a.

Technical Factor

-Insufficient bicep circumference causes tightness around the upper arm and restricts sleeve movement.

Remedial Measure

– Increase the bicep circumference by lowering the armhole depth and adjusting the sleeve-cap height to provide adequate upper-arm ease, as shown in Fig. 19b.

Fig. 19a. Observed tight arm

Fig. 19b. Corresponding pattern correction.
Sleeve Pitch Off Description

Wrinkles bunch up or form diagonal drag lines (furrows)

across the front or back of the upper arm, as shown in Fig. 20a.

Technical Factor

Misalignment of the sleeve pitch with the corresponding body armhole balance causes the sleeve to rotate and form diagonal drag lines.

Remedial Measure

Reshape the sleeve-cap line to align with the body armhole and adjust the sleeve pitch to achieve a balanced forward and backward swing of the sleeve, as shown in Fig. 20b

Fig. 20a. Observed sleeve pitch off.

Fig. 20b. Corresponding pattern correction.

Overall Results and Discussion

The analysis of the 20 styling and fitting issues showed that Drafting (C3) was associated with all 20 issues, followed by Measuring (C1) with 9, Materials (C2) with 6, and Sewing (C7) with 3 issues. No associations were recorded for C4, C5, C6, C8 or C9. The findings indicate that pattern dimensions, shaping, proportions and component relationships were consistently relevant to the observed manifestations, with measuring, materials and sewing contributing to selected issues. Overall, the findings provide a structured basis for relating observed styling and fitting issues to their probable originating processes, associated technical factors and remedial measures, supporting subsequent pattern engineering improvement.

CONCLUSION

The study identified 20 distinct styling and fitting issues in mens blazers across MTO/ Bespoke, CT, MTM and RTW blazer-making systems. Each issue was traced to its probable originating process within the nine-process blazer-making framework and assessed in relation to associated technical factors and remedial measures. Drafting (C3) was associated with all 20 identified issues, indicating its prominent relevance to the observed styling and fitting manifestations. The study provides a structured practical reference for relating observed garment issues to probable process origins and corresponding corrective measures, supporting pattern engineering improvement in blazer making.

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Volume 15, Issue 09 (September 2026)

Pattern Engineering Assessment of Styling and Fitting Issues in Men’s Blazer Making

Pattern Engineering Assessment of Styling and Fitting Issues in Mens Blazer Making

Thippeswamy C.(1)*

Dr. Jayashree Venkatesh (2)

INTRODUCTION

LITERATURE REVIEW

Blazer Fit and Styling

Pattern Engineering and Garment Fit

Styling and Fitting Problems in Mens Jackets, Blazer and Coats

Pattern-Related Technical Factors

Research Gap

METHODOLOGY

Research Design

Identification of Styling and Fitting Issues

Consolidation of Styling and Fitting Issues

Tracing Styling and Fitting Issues to Probable Originating Processes

Technical Assessment of Styling and Fitting Issues

Determination of Remedial Measures

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

Consolidated Styling and Fitting Issues

Note: = observed/marked in the respective blazer-making segment; = not observed/marked.

Probable Originating Processes

Table 4.2. Probable Originating Processes of the Identified Styling and Fitting Issues

No. Styling and Fitting Issue Probable Originating C-Process(es)

Figure 4.1. Process-Level Association of Styling and Fitting Issues.

Overall Results and Discussion

CONCLUSION

REFERENCES